What an adventure! Something out of tales of old. Tall sturdy masts flowing with silken sails above a beautiful wooden deck. Guests laying about on deck sipping tea or fruity iced drinks as we sail along. Cocktails at sunset on deck and exquisite gourmet meals served on a full table up top. The magnificent life of Reilly.
Reality, well it's a little different. Come with me for a short trip to the Sea of Cortez aboard a small sailing charter. The seas are beautiful and teeming with sea life; dolphins, whales, sea lions, manta rays, whale sharks, turtles, multitudes of fish species and pelicans, gulls and frigate birds. During winter the skies are mostly calm with light clouds floating above. Temperatures are moderate and conducive to lazy days of rest and relaxation.
The waters are cool and sometimes tempestuous but inviting to kayakers, snorkelers and divers. The shores are a mixture of cliffs, rolling hills on desolate islands like a moonscape photo with man-sized cactus growing in groves out of red rocks, and soft sandy beaches that call to you as you drift past them.
I should tell you first that I am enamored of this land and life at sea. But it is not what I imagined. I was born in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado, USA, where the largest bodies of water are reservoirs full of icy mountain water. Boating there involves paddling your canoe down small rivers or across quiet mountain lakes or for the adventurous, riding the raging whitewater rapids in rubber rafts hanging on for an exhilarating short ride in Nature's amusement park.
A move to the West Coast of America brought powerboats dashing across the wild waters of Puget Sound and out into the green lush islands of Washington and British Columbia. Travels around the world have sent me across water in ferries, cruise ships, power tugs and more. But never had I spent time on the elegant sailing vessels of the seas. Until now.
My fiancée is an avid sailor of more than 35 years and loves everything about the seas. For the past year he had been singing the siren song of the waves to me, enticing me with images of slow sails to nowhere, coasting in and out of little island coves, merging silently with nature. So we came to sail and take other willing dreamers with us.
We have use of several larger luxury sailing boats for our charters. After pouring over catalogs of the charter boats and seeing their gleaming spacious interiors I was ready. I thought. As I am a chef I dreamed of creating amazing meals for our guests to consume while lounging on deck. I had never cooked on a boat but didn't dream of any difficulties as I have cooked in many primitive and unusual places in the past.
My first experience of sailing changed everything. There is nothing quite so difficult as trying to prepare a sauce when one must juggle holding the pot, stirring and keeping a hold of a counter to stay upright. The first few experiences were hilarious and mind-boggling. Menus began to change rapidly from slow-cooked delicate dishes were timing is everything. No more soufflés, mousses, elaborate stir-fries or crepes. The first time a pan went flying off the stove and I followed soon after as we rode a swell I began to adapt my style.
Supplies are different as well. Everything must be brought on board as we leave our first port. The islands and shores of the Baja are not peppered with towns or grocery outlets. Water must be loaded enough for 7 days and any fruit, drinks, produce and baked goods must be scheduled very carefully to hold for the entire trip. Adaptations began immediately to the local cuisine as special supplies are rare and expensive after their 1000 mile journey down the peninsula.
But the adventure doesn't end once the meal is prepared. The boat rides the waves like riding a horse. Holding a plate in one hand, fork in the other and trying to also still stay on deck is more difficult than it seems. Luckily if guests get up early breakfast is leisurely while at anchor and late dinners once we've arrived at our next destination are a treat to linger over.
Needless to say times have changed. Sandwiches carefully wrapped for ease of eating have entered the picture. Cups with lids or straws to aid in drinking without wearing have appeared. And eating on deck is not necessarily something one wants to do while sailing. The boat is in and out of water, splashing and soaring until holding yourself on is as important as holding your food. Most guests want to help with the lines or simply be at point to enjoy the experience. Children scramble up and over the sloped decks like little monkeys grasping food in one hand and the safety lines in the other as they hang over searching for dolphins or other playmates of the sea.
We still sail to the isolated coves and revel in the amazing sunsets. Cocktails are up top as we soak in the deep roses and ambers of sunsets over the desert mainland in the distance. Dinners are elegant but tend to be centered around the bounty of the sea, caught fresh, cooked simply and served well.
I've learned to hang on tight or strap myself in while cooking and prepare much ahead of time because, like our guests, I want to be out on the deck reveling in the waves and the views as we coast along the beautiful Sea of Cortez.
The dream has changed but the experience has only deepened. For every little inconvenience dealt with there is an equal or greater joy to be found in the sights and sounds of life at sea below the sails and on the wind.
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